“The colorless buildings of Cairo flow seamlessly out of the desert sand, belying the vibrancy that blazes in the streets...The energy is contagious—if not a bit disconcerting at times—and I loved being there at a time of big change, big voices, and very, very few tourists. Policemen in white uniforms that (ironically) hearken back to colonial British-wear directed traffic at every major corner, the wires from traffic lights having been ripped out to sell on the black market...”